distance: 16 miles (loop) | elevation: 3,162’ (8,988’ starting) | difficulty: strenuous
After last year’s stressful (but beautiful) sprint up Lone Eagle Peak the first weekend after permits were no longer required, I decided to pick random summer weekends on January 2nd and reserve some permits in Indian Peaks Wilderness. First up? The High Lonesome Loop.
Open meadows, top-notch views, alpine lakes… what else could ya ask for?! I know I say it about almost every hike in Colorado, but this backpacking loop is another beaut that left me saying I’d put this on my list again next year.
how to get to hessie trailhead
The trailhead is located near Nederland (just about an hour and a half from Denver!) and Google is your friend (see below) on directions to get there. The trailhead you are looking for is Hessie Trailhead. This trailhead is soooo popular that it doesn’t really matter if you get to the lot before 6am… there is a good chance the parking (parallel parking between signs) is full! This is a super popular spot for both day hikes and backpacking trips. If you’re planning on hiking anytime on the weekend during the summer, I HIGHLY suggest just parking at Nederland High School and taking the free shuttle. (Anyways, you probably won’t have a choice as there will be a cop probably stopping you in front of the school to let ya know the lot is full).
The shuttle runs from 7am to 8pm on Saturdays and 7am to 6pm on Sundays, from June 27th to October 11th. They are taking precautions (maximum of 6 people or 2 households and all surfaces wiped down between rides) so be aware there will most likely be a wait. Masks are mandatory for the quick 10 minute ride and pups are allowed on leash!
the high lonesome loop hike
Regardless if you park or take the shuttle, you technically still have a lil bit of a hike till the true Hessie Trailhead. (Side note. If you have a high clearance 4WD vehicle, you may be able to get to the actual trailhead, but it is rough and some pretty deep water crossings during summer). Obviously the loop can be done either way, however for my preferences, clockwise was best. Not only did this allow for a short five mile hike out Sunday, but the incline is slightly milder.
The first part of the hike is quite annoying – seemingly never ending steep rocky road (I was really happy to have ankle support). Early on, you’ll come across a few trail intersections. The first one is about a mile in when you come to King Lake – Devil’s Thumb Bypass. If the plan is clockwise, take King Lake. In less than half a mile, you’ll come to Lost Lake trail split (this is where most day hikers are headed) to the left and then King Lake – Woodland Lake which is at the South Fork Boulder Middle Boulder Creek crossing – continue on King Lake. The incline is steady through pines, but manageable. You’ll arrive at a meadow to switchbacks till you arrive at the King Lake – Bob and Betty Lake split – another creek crossing.
As you look up, you’ll see remnants of the Devil’s Slide Trestle (finallyyyyy remembered to look up a question I had while hiking!). These trestles were built in 1905 as a means to allow train transportation over the Continental Divide between Denver and Salt Lake via Rollins Pass. When it was no longer used for trains, cars utilized these trestles till the 1980s!
In about half a mile, you’ll arrive at King Lake! This was where we stopped for lunch because the lake is gorgeous, wildflowers galore, and we could watch people ski down some lingering snow to claim they skied in August (though it was a lil hard to find a spot where you were sheltered from the wind). Sadly, the climbing isn’t over yet! Continue the incline across the Continental Divide and on the High Lonesome Trail. On the plus side, the views are unreal. On the other hand, ya think the climb is done after the switchbacks, but unfortunately, after some level trail, you still have to push uphill. At the High Lonesome – Devil’s Thumb split, bear right to take Devil’s Thumb.
Even in August, there was still snow at this pass. Lucks on your side if you are going clockwise… ya get to slide down! (Don’t worry if you’re going counterclockwise, there are “steps” to the other side). Immediately after is a steep winding decline which leads its way to gorgeous views of Devil’s Thumb Lake and Jasper Lake. You’ll pass a pond, then Devil’s Thumb, where afterward the trail opens back into a meadow before landing upon Jasper Lake.
After both lakes, the trail continues to decline the rest of the way. You pass the split for Diamond Lake soon on your left, and then Woodland Lake about a mile and a half later. Continue on the Devil’s Thumb Bypass trail through a meadow till you’re back at the King Lake – Devil’s Thumb Bypass junction (sadly, you probably already forgot how rocky the rest of the way back is!).
This can be done as a long day hike (or trail run if you’re one of those crazies!), but I highly recommend at least one night of backpacking!
where to camp on the high lonesome loop
As mentioned above, if you are going between June 1st and September 15th, you need a permit to camp!
There are 7 spots to camp around Jasper Lake, which is where I camped. I LOVED our spot, so I definitely recommend it. However, if the permits for Jasper are full, or if you want to break up the hike into different mileage, there are more options! Other backcountry zones located on the High Lonesome Loop include Devil’s Thumb and Middle Boulder.
Unlike Crater Lake, the signs were pretty obvious about where to go to find each spot. Even spots located around the lakes, keeping with good backpacking protocols, all are located at least 100’ from water.
so which site do you go for?
Honestly, we were BEAT after 11 miles and we were not exactly willing to check out every spot that was open before deciding on one. Since we were coming from the west, the first campsite we came across was campsite 6. It looked to be located in a meadow and we wanted to be a little closer to the water for morning coffee and reading… so begrudgingly we continued to the next campsites, 5 and 7, crossing our fingers we weren’t adding any extra mileage and they were open.
I camped at site 5 and it was prettyyyyyy great! Plenty big for a couple of tents and just a small jaunt up from the lake! (Granted the lil uphill almost killed us when it came to checking to see if the spot was open). I was curious about site 4 since it was the only one on the other side of the lake, but my spot felt pretty secluded and quiet.
when to go
While relatively close to Denver, this is still the mountains, so snow lingers for quite a while. Your best bet is probably to aim for mid-July through September. If you choose to go before the permit season, be prepared for snow and cold nights… even in June! If you’re going to go really soon after September 15th when the weather is still warm and plan to camp, I HIGHLY recommend going during the week if you can. There will be rangers walking around, and they will give you a ticket if you aren’t camping within 30’ of one of the campsites!
When applying for permits, remember there are only so many spots! And everyone is applying for the weekends. In stating the obvious, apply early!
what to bring
I’m glad ya asked! I made a lil checklist for backpacking! A couple of things to note – no campfires and a bear canister is needed. Alsoooo – the entire hike is v v sunny so bring lots of sun protection!
how to get a backcountry permit?
You need a permit to camp between June 1st and September 15th in the backcountry! Permits go live on January 2nd for this time frame every year. I may be stating the obvious, but apply as soon as possible! If you’re a little behind and can’t secure a permit for Jasper Lake or Devil’s Thumb Backcountry Zone, I spoke with some women who scored a permit for Woodland Lake a week in advance for a Saturday night in August…
Click on over to the Forest Service’s permits and regulations info here. While normally the process is v old school and no online permit system… covid times. All applications are now only online with all information found here. Once the date and place are verified, you will be asked for the $5 processing fee. The stations for Indian Peaks Wilderness are located in Boulder and Granby. On the application, you’ll need to specify the backcountry zone, the date, number of people, etc.
directions:
Basically in Denver’s backyard, alpine lakes, with endless views all around. Head to the High Lonesome Loop in the Indian Peaks Wilderness for the perfect one night backpacking trip.
2 Comments
This hike is on my to do list and seeing your pics made me even more excited! Maybe I’ll try for a permit for 2021.
I’ve done the loop a few times. I prefer going counter clockwise. If your adventurous, when you get over Devils Thumb Pass and if you look down towards the west at the base of the slope you will notice a clearing. There are quite a few nice camp spots to set up camp. There is a creek nearby. This area is in the Columbine backcountry zone. You will need a permit. You are allowed to have fire’s as long as their are no fire restrictions.