Colombia’s famous Eje Cafetero. Salento is the star of the show for Colombia’s coffee region, however there’s a small town that is the hidden gem of this region. Located less than an hour from Salento is the charming pueblo of Filandia. As most foreign tourists head to Salento, it is likely you’ll find yourself as one of the only non-Colombian tourists there.
While it’s not on the tourist map (yet), that doesn’t mean you won’t find an abundant amount of activities to do here. Coffee farms, people watching in the plaza, hikes to waterfalls, and home to the BEST FOOD I had in Colombia. Keep reading to see why you must visit Filandia.
what to do in filandia
drink coffee and people watch
Like most small towns in Colombia, Filandia has a main plaza dotted with cafes and restaurants all around. And since it’s the coffee region, there is no shortage of places to get your caffeine fix! A few I can recommend – Cultivar Cafe, Jahn Cafe, MOCAFE, Don Fernando. Yeah, as you can see, I drank just a few cups of coffee while here (I mean, kind of a must in the coffee region right?!).
visit the double waterfall
About an hour and half walk from the town is the “secret” double waterfall. Heads up – there are two different land owners that you can pay to enter the falls. Make sure to head to La Morelia where entry is only $6,000 COP instead of $15,000.
visit a coffee farm
I didn’t personally do this while here since I had just visited one while in Salento. I met people who visited Finca El Carriel, but I’m sure wherever you stay can recommend others.
where to eat in filandia
Okay, now onto my favorite part – DA FOOD. Honestly, I could write an entire post on just the food in Filandia – it’s that good.
Helena Adentro
Recommended by my hostel on my first night was Helena Adentro. After eating there, I can honestly say I could not have had a better welcome to Filandia. This tapas style restaurant focuses on seasonal and local food, so the menu is always changing. While it is slightly expensive for Colombia (around $8 USD for a main dish), it was worth it and completely reasonable for the innovative and delicious food. If you go (really it should be WHEN you go), make sure to order the “berenjenas de finca” – an eggplant appetizer dish that is simply amazing.
Tuk Tuk
I kept hearing about great Thai food place on the edge of town with a great view. Finally, on my last night, I made it there for dinner with a sunset. While the Pad Thai I had may not have been the most authentic Thai dish, it was probably my favorite dish I had in Colombia (and maybe all of South America)! And tbh, may or may not still be dreaming about this dish…
Finca Aprisco La Española
When I was first told about Filandia, this guy told me, “while you’re there, make sure you walk to get lunch at this priest’s farm… it was the best thing I did there.” Not sure why this stuck with me, but inquiring at the hostel led me to Finca Aprisco La Española. Yes, home to the local priest and goat farmer! It’s easy and cheap to hitch a ride on a Willy, but I suggest enjoying the rolling countryside and walking the six miles (mostly downhill) there! Make sure to reserve in advance through Bidea Hostel. And FYI, Jairo can cater to any kind of food diets (vegans, paleo, gluten free travelers rejoice!)
As a side note, you’re making a mistake if you don’t order limonada de coco with like every meal you eat out in Colombia.
where to stay in filandia
Bidea Hostel
Located only two blocks from the main plaza is the homey hostel of Bidea Hostel. Nothing too special, but the atmosphere is great, everyone who works there is very friendly and super helpful, and free breakfast loaded with fresh fruit and local coffee.
Casa Muy ChaCho
When researching where to stay, Casa Muy ChaCho was highly recommended, however about 20 minutes by car outside of the town. As I had just come from Salento where I enjoyed relaxing outside of the town, I decided to stay somewhere within the town.
how to get to filandia
There are direct buses from both Armenia and Pereira. If you’re coming from Salento, there are now Willys which leave about six times a day going direct to Filandia. Check with the Willys in Salento’s plaza to confirm times.
What do you think – is Filandia added to your must visit list?
3 Comments
Beautiful, beautiful pictures! It all looks amazing! Columbian Coffee truly is delicious too!
I am going to Columbia this October am I am interested in going here now. Thank you for the information!
You had me at coffee and food 😀 Now that I live in SE Asia, Columbia coffee is hard to come by (unless I buy Starbucks brand…) and I SO miss Columbia coffee! One day I’m gonna get my butt to South America!