tackling huayna potosi

There are two activities synonymous with Bolivia – Death Road and the Salt Flats.

Little did I know, but there are numerous mountains to climb less than two hours outside of La Paz. And I’m not talking, hiking up them… I mean actually climbing up them.

You want the real adrenaline rush activity close to La Paz? It’s not Death Road, but Huayna Potosi.

Huayna Potosi was not even on my radar when I headed to South America. In fact, I had only heard of it about two weeks before I started the climb. When walking up the intense incline of Colca Canyon (near Arequipa), a girl I was hiking with said, “I wonder if this is the pain my friends felt when they were climbing that mountain outside of La Paz.” I inquired a little more and found out there was a 6,000+ meter (almost 20,000 feet!) mountain you can climb.

I knew 6,088m/19,974ft was high, but for some reason, it didn’t occur to me that I wouldn’t be hiking this mountain, but climbing it aka walking on snow and climbing up a wall with a ice pick.

You read reviews and it says “known as one of the easiest 6,000+ meter mountains to climb.” DO NOT LET THIS FOOL YOU. Maybe if you mountaineer as a hobby, but if you’ve never done it before… it will most likely be the hardest thing (physically, as well as mentally) you’ve ever done in your life.

The company with the best reviews is Climbing South America. And while, one of the expensive companies, I can’t recommend them enough. There is a reason behind the cost. The guides are beyond professional, extremely safe (only two people per guide), and so so friendly.

If you’ve never climbed before, go with the three day option.

day one – base camp

You drive to base camp (4700m), practice putting on all the required equipment, and learn how to walk on a glacier and ice climb. Then, you just get soooo much good food to nom on.

day two – high camp

After an early wake up (you probably went to bed at 8… honestly, it was the best sleep I’ve gotten in months) and eating a great breakfast (best pancakes I’ve had in South America!), you walk the two-ish hours to high camp (5200m). Then, you just chill! Well, and eat lunch and dinner. You’re trying to get as much sleep as possible because come 11:30pm, you’re waking up, putting on your gear for summit day!

day three – summit

Summit Day! Most likely, by 12:30am you’re out the door and headed up the mountain. After about thirty minutes of climbing up slippery rocks, you’re strapping on the cramptons, pulling out the ice pick, and on your way. You’ll walk along snow for hours, tackle a 35 meter ice wall, and jump over a few crevasses in the pitch black.

When we signed up for the mountain, a group of four guys had just gotten back and said it was the hardest thing they’ve ever done, but probably the best thing. I guess you really have to do it to understand that. Because 100% the hardest thing I’ve ever done. I screamed. I cried. I got sick. But all worth it when you make it to the top, and hopefully greeted by a lovely sunrise!

After a (hopefully nice) sunrise at the summit, you fly down the mountain in order get down before the snow becomes unstable which increases the chance of avalanches.

things to know before ya climb huayna potosi

getting there:

the base camp is located about an hour and a half from La Paz (provided by your tour agency)

cost:

tours cost between $150-$200 (Climbing South America was $188 and included park entrance and all required equipment)

when to visit:

the prime season is May-September. Again, I am visiting out of season, but again, I was lucky with the weather. The summer months can be more dangerous, along with wet and cloudy.

what to bring:

clothing layers (themals, fleece, puffy, hiking pants, waterproof outer layer – Climbing South America can provide waterproof clothing)
45L + backpack (to carry everything, including climbing gear, sleeping bag, etc)
day pack (for summit day)
sleeping bag (able to rent)
multiple pairs of socks
raincoat
water bottle (enough water for the first day)
hat/gloves
sunnies
sunscreen
snacks (aka chocolate!)

above all, remember that it is 100% necessary to acclimatize (a week in La Paz or similar elevation is recommended)! Altitude sickness is a serious matter! Also, this is a very physical activity and you must be fit.

Is Huayna Potosi now on your bucket list?!