where the desert meets the sea: la guajira

The northernmost tip in South America. Stunning Caribbean beaches. Giant sand dunes. Colombia’s largest indigenous population (the Wayuu). You’ll find all this and more on a tour to the remote and isolated La Guajira.

Getting here isn’t easy, but it is so worth the trouble to visit Colombia’s wild northeast.

I almost didn’t go here due to my plane ticket home already being booked. But the next thing you know, I’m sitting eating breakfast in a hostel in Filandia and I’m convinced to skip San Gil and head to La Guajira instead.

Riohacha

So Riohacha is the starting point for your adventure into the desert. I’ll be 100 percent frank with ya here – I HATED Riohacha. It’s not pretty, it is hot AF, and there is really not much to do. But it is here where you’ll need to hitch your 4 wheel drive ride into the desert. While it is possible to find a ride into the desert on your own, I highly recommend going with a tour. Doing it on your own requires multiple buses, as well as the hassle of finding a 4×4 to actually get you around. On top of that, there is no way to avoid a tour to get to Punta Gallinas. With a tour, not only is the vehicle dependable and you’ll get to where you need to go, but your guide will show you all the best spots (and usually has ties to the Wayuu).

Cabo de la Vela

About a 3 hour (bumpy) ride, passing goats and salt flats, from Riohacha is Cabo de la Vela. You may not be 100 percent alone as it is known to be a kitesurfing mecca – one of the best spots year round. From here you can visit some of the most gorgeous secluded beaches – Playa del Pilon, Playa Ojo de Agua, and Playa de Azucar. Also, sunset at El Faro (the lighthouse) is a must! At the end of the night, enjoy some Polar (Venezuelan) beer on the beach before cozying into your hammock for the night. Also, I mentioned this place is remote, but I do just want to let y’all know… this means no wifi, cold showers, and very limited electricity.

Pro tip: the key to a successful night sleep in a hammock is to lay diagonal! 

Punta Gallinas

Here is where the real adventure begins. You’ll be driving for a good 6 hours in order to get to Punta Gallinas, the northernmost point of Colombia/South America. If you’re wondering if this long drive is really worth it after you’ve made it to the gorgeous Cabo de la Vela? A MILLION times yes, it is worth it!

Luckily along the route, you’ll stop along the way for some dips in the most beautiful beaches (but be careful of the jellyfish!), see some flamingos, and stop at some great photo opportunities. Not only are the places you stop gorgeous, but the scenery from the jeep is unreal. I almost felt like I was in a Dali painting at times. On top of that, you’ll be amazed by your tour driver who somehow knows where to go when there are no roads… just sand!

Only about an hours drive from Punta Gallinas is the Taroa Sand Dunes. It is almost a mirage as the enormous dunes all of a sudden drop straight down into the Caribbean sea.

Due to this being almost the last place I visited on my trip, I didn’t have as much time as I’d like. I’d really recommend doing the four day tour and making the visit to Parque Macuira!

One final note that is not easy to talk about – the extreme poverty of the area. This area is a desert, and the indigenous Wayuu people do not have fresh water to drink. As mentioned below, bring fresh water to share! Yes, being a traveler I almost felt guilty I had the privilege to visit this area. However, the point of traveling is to open your eyes to new places and different cultures. That may mean it is not always the nicest or safest place. But I believe we need to see it (even if it is unpleasant) and help and raise awareness.

things to know:

getting there:

if coming from Santa Marta, catch a straight to Riohacha (2.5 hours). if you are leaving later in the evening (like me), you may need to grab a local bus to Palomino, and then a passenger van to Riohacha

cost:

a 3 day/2 night tour will cost you around 450.000 COP ($150 USD) which includes all transportation, food, and accommodation (I booked through PuraGuajira Hostel which was recommended by other travelers)

weather:

hot AF

what to bring:

• plenty of water
• snacks
• cash (no ATMs!)
• hat/sunnies
• sunscreen
• bathing suit
• driving through the desert, you’ll encounter a lot of “tolls.” These tolls are simply ropes manned by indigenous children… make sure to bring some water to share with them!

Looking for a real adventure off the gringo circuit? Take a tour to the wild and beautiful La Guajira!