Greece has been on my travel list since 2005 – hello Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants! Quite a few places made their way above Greece over the years, BUT, thanks to one of my close friends from college getting married in Santorini, I was finallyyy able to cross it off the list. And we all know, if you’re flying across the world to go to a Greek Island, you don’t just go to ONE Greek Island. So with input from friends and the internet world, I settled on the island of Crete.
Not only does Crete have pretty perfect weather year-round, but it has something for everyone. History? Duh. Outdoor adventures? Of course. Beaches? Yupppp.
Need help planning your road trip across Crete? I got you.
So Crete is pretty big (largest Greek island and the fifth-largest island in the Mediterranean)! In order to make the most out of your holiday on the island, I highly recommend flying/ferrying in and out of two different ports.
And so I’ve traveled through mainland Europe – taking mostly trains everywhere I went. I’ve traveled through South America – taking mostly buses from place to place. But driving in a foreign country? First for me! Crete is a huge country and in my experience, best explored by car.
day one – heraklion to zaros
heraklion
The most popular tourist attraction in Heraklion is the Minoan Palace of Knossos. In fact, the second most visited tourist spot in Greece after the Acropolis in Athens. However, there is some controversy surrounding the accuracy of the restorations of this palace. I’m not an expert on all the nuisances, but if you’re a history buff, ya may want to research beforehand. Tbh, I skipped Knossos in order to hit the road to Zaros.
zaros
By the time I got to Zaros (one hour drive), it was kinda late, dark… and I was exhausted. Butttt, not too exhausted that I was gonna skip a meal! If you’re looking for a true Cretan experience (and um, why would you not?!), head to Vegera. There is no set menu, but whatever is freshest for the day (with vegetarian and vegan options!).
day two – zaros to spili
zaros
First things first – food! You’re doing it wrong if you don’t stay at Keramos, a family-run hotel. Each morning, they treat you to breakfast with pastries being made fresh while you’re sitting! Even better, they encourage you to take some to go!
After breakfast, head to Lake Votomos. I just did a short hike, but if you’re keen, there are some great longer hikes in this area, including the Agios Nikolaos Gorge.
phaistos
Knossos may get all the press, but in my eyes, Phaistos takes the cake. Not only fewer crowds, but the setting, with the mountains and Messara plains, is so freaking beautiful. Jump in the car and head just thirty minutes away to Phaistos Minoan Palace, a Bronze Age archaeological site. According to mythology, Phaistos was the seat of king Radamanthis (the brother of king Minos). During the Minoan times, Phaistos was a very important city-state. The cost is €8 to explore the palace.
triopetra
The one hour drive to Triopetra may have been one of the most gorgeous drives I’ve ever taken on a road trip. Alsoooo, it was slightly terrifying as the roads are quite narrow! And, on top of that, there were also points where you will basically be on the side of a cliff, as well as driving through a small village where the road is juuuusssst wide enough for a single car to fit between two BUILDINGS. IDK what I would have done if there was a car ever coming in the other direction (with a blind corner!!) – I hate reversing in general, let alone in a rental car?!? BUT! Beautiful!
Not sure how I stumbled across Triopetra, but I kinda feel it’s a lil secret of Crete. Minimal people, gorgeous clear and calm water, and great beachside noms. After lunch, make use of their beach chairs and maybe take a lil dip!
preveli beach
It may appear the entire day is spent driving, but I promise, the drive is so gorgeous you won’t even notice! Hop in the car and drive another hour to the magical Preveli Beach. Honestly, it’s kinda an oasis where you probably won’t even feel like you’re in Greece – a freshwater river meets the ocean at the Libyan Sea… where the river is lined with PALM TREES. Yupp, a true lil tropical paradise!
Heads up, it is a steeeep walk down (and remember ya gotta make it back up too!) a cliff to get to the beach from the parking lot! Def recommend wearing something other than flip flops!
day three – spili to chania
spili
By no means is Spili a city, but it has everything you need – bank, post office, health centers, etc. So if you’re in need of any of those essentials, this is da spot! There’s also quite a few spots to pick up a souvenir or two like fresh spices, honey, or natural cosmetics. And ya can’t leave without hitting up the village’s center. Here you’ll find lots of places to enjoy coffee and a Greek snack, as well as its ‘kefalovrissi’ or Lions Fountain (25 lion heads spouting fresh spring water from Crete’s tallest mountain, Mount Ida).
arkadi monastery
The architecture at the Arkadi Monastery alone is reason enough to visit, but is a place of significant (but extremely sad) history. The “Holocaust of Arkadi” took place in 1866 as part of the Cretans’ resistance against the Turks. Make sure to plan enough time here to read up on all the history. Also, keep in mind that this is still an active place of worship, so please be respectful!
margarites
This may be my favorite spot in Crete! Margarites is a charming village (with just 300 residents!) known for its pottery. Margarites has a long history with ceramics – starting as early as the Ottoman period. Find a place to park and explore the village by foot, visiting all the studios. Also, a great spot to pick up a souvenir or two for you or a friend!
chania
After spending the first three days in small villages, after one and a half hour drive, you’re finally back to a city.
Most likely, you won’t get here until the evening, so after settling into your hotel, head towards the Old Venetian Harbour, originally built by the Venetians around 1600. After walking around a bit, I recommend taking a stroll and eating outside at To Stachi. Try and head in early to get some shut-eye for the early next day!
day four – samaria gorge
samaria gorge
When ya think of Greece, you think of beaches, right?? Well ya girl couldn’t resist fitting in a hike in the White Mountains. I’d say this is a moderate hike – not necessarily hard (though the beginning is relatively steep down into the gorge!), but it is about 10 miles long. Near the end of the hike you’ll reach the “Gates,” where the the gorge is only 12 feet wide and almost 1,000 feet high!
Once you reach the end of the park, highly recommend sitting down and grabbing a beer before walking the last mile to Agia Roumeli. And once you get into town, grab some noms and another beer before taking a lil dip in the sea! Seriously could get v used to hikes that end up at da beach!
Since I did this through a tour (you go at your own pace and ya just meet at the end!) since even if you go on your own, you won’t get back any faster since boats leaving Agia Roumeli only leave at 5:15pm back to Sougia (and then a bus to Chania). No matter what, this will be a looooong day – plan for pickup at 6am and not getting back to Chania until 8pm. Make sure to have cash on you as well, €5 for park entry and €10 for a ferry ticket. Don’t forget to pack your bathing suit and sandals! (People wandering around on the sand in hiking boots made me lol).
day five – elafonissi
elafonissi beach
You’re on a Greek Island… ya really thought there wouldn’t be an entire day dedicated to the beach?! Though if you know me IRL, that maybe wouldn’t be surprising since I’ve never been a huge beach person. But ya know what? I found out I’m a ~*sea*~ person.
Elafonissi beach is a bit of a trek from Chania (one and a half hours), but soooo worth it. Pink sand, crystal clear water… yes please. Yes, it will most likely be busy, but get there early, find a nice spot, and settle in for the day. There are covered beach chairs if you’re so inclined, but I enjoyed rotating between reading on my beach towel and chilling in the water (or ya know, just people watching).
Now I have traveled solo quite a bit (hello, seven months in South America), but I have to be honest, I felt a little lonely in Greece. I’m not sure if it was the time of year, where I traveled to, not as many solo travelers, or what. I’m not saying this to deter you from visiting! But maybe just something to keep in the back of your mind if you’re taking a lil solo vaca.
when to visit crete
While the weather is normally pretty great, the island still has winter and if you’re driving through the mountains, ya could come across snow! I recommend visiting between April and November. Keep in mind, July and August will be the busiest (prime summer y’all). I went mid October and found it PERFECT aka I wasn’t sweating (for the most part) and ya could still go for a lil dip in the sea.
how to get to crete
If you’re coming from another Greek Island, a ferry is probably your best bet.I used FerryHopper to purchase my tickets in advance. When it is not prime season, the ferries don’t run as often, so I recommend purchasing before the day of. Heads up, there’s a good chance you need to head to the ferry office in town during business hours to have your ticket printed for you – they weren’t accepting mobile tickets.
Not coming from an island? There are three airports in Crete – Heraklion Airport (HER), Chania Airport (CHQ), and Sitia Airport (JSH). The latter is definitely smaller than the first two which are international.
where to stay in crete
Since I was there in shoulder season, I’ll be honest with ya, I only booked about a day or two in advance. Just hop on Booking or AirBnB and find a place to your fancy. During busy season, this obviously won’t be an option though!
Ready to road trip across Crete?