colorado weekend: exploring the san juan mountains

blue lakes hike Colorado views

blue lakes hike Colorado views san juan mountains

2020 was somehow the longest, yet also the shortest year right?! Somehow it’s already 2021, and March (when the US went into lockdown) is just a month away. Covid has really put a damper on travel plans over the past year. Realistically speaking, I’m not sure when I will be going on a traditional vacation again (hopefully by the end of this year???). I can’t speak for everyone, but I’m still holding off on planning a typical vacation for this summer (I’m talking, flying, hotels, not a thought in the world about being around other people, etc). But what do I feel comfortable doing? Road trips.

Lucky for me, I live in the beautiful state of Colorado. That means no shortage of cute mountain towns to visit (safely). Telluride and Ouray have been on my list since I moved here, so I took a long weekend and headed to explore the San Juan Mountains in Southwest Colorado!


Covid may put a little damper on your road trip, but with a little planning, I don’t think you’ll miss out on a single thing.

road trip tips!

Remember y’all… it’s on you to make responsible choices for you and for those around you!

  • RESEARCH – local restrictions, where to stay, etc etc etc
  • camp – if possible. Obviously, this means the least interaction with others. I get not everyone likes to camp, so a self-check-in at an AirBnB is probably your next best (safest) route
  • food – bring as much of your own food from your city/town. If you need to shop for more groceries, try to do it in one trip
    • Pro tip: save all your recipes offline in case of no service!
  • gas – same concept as above. You are trying to limit your contact with other/smaller communities
  • wash up – can’t forget good ole hand washing! Make sure to have hand sanitizer in your car and on you at all times!
  • mask up – ANY time you are near other people (including the trail!)
  • download media – maps, movies, apps

I know not everyone is as obsessed with lists/spreadsheets as me… buttttt creating a spreadsheet of planned meals and activities really helped with packing!

Now to how to spend a long weekend in the San Juan Mountains!


what to do

yankee boy basin Colorado san juan mountains

upper blue lakes hike Colorado san juan mountains

hike

Almost every post on here is about hiking, so is it any surprise that this is first on the list?! There is no shortage of hikes in the San Juan Mountains so you won’t be able to get to them all. But I like to think of that means there is just a reason to plan another trip back!

blue lakes

distance: 5.2 miles (out & back) | elevation: 1,656’ | difficulty: moderate
This hike is one of THE hikes of the San Juans. I opted for the Yankee Boy Basin route (closer to Ridgway) so we could camp there the night before our start. If you have a 4WD vehicle (we made it to the first parking area just fine in a 4WD SUV, but high clearance is needed for the true trailhead), I highly recommend this route because it is absolutely gorgeous before ya even get to the lakes!
If ya feeling feisty and you’re prepared (early start, experience, etc) you can also hit up the 14er, Mount Sneffels (class II and class III options). 

columbine lake hike Colorado views san juan mountains

Columbine lake hike Colorado san juan mountains

columbine lake

distance: 8.3 miles (out & back) | elevation: 2,933’ | difficulty: difficult
Blue Lakes and Ice/Island lakes seem to be the IT HIKE of the area, but I think Columbine Lake may be my favorite hike I’ve ever done! For this hike I was looking forward to the ~pristine blue~ lake, but I think the views leading up to it may have been even better. The first 3 miles are grueling (it kicked my booty)!! 16 switchbacks! But once you reach the saddle, it is smooth sailing.

bridal veil falls

distance: 4.8 miles (out & back) | elevation: 1,368’ | difficulty: moderate
What has to be one of the best waterfalls in Colorado. In fact, they are the tallest free-falling falls in Colorado! At the top of the falls sits a privately owned historic power plant.

via ferrata

If you’re feeling spicy, hire a guide and scale the vertical cliff near Bridal Veil via cables and ladders (I was not feeling spicy).

There are also some hidden gems in and around the San Juan Mountain area 🙂

hidden gem hike Colorado Telluride

visit hot springs

If you read my trip report on hiking from Aspen to Crested Butte, I talked about how I had THE BEST driver for the 3-hour car ride back to Aspen after the hike. One of the topics was the ranking of Colorado’s hot springs. His top choice? Orvis Hot Springs in Ouray, Colorado. So while I might have said the hiking was the main reason for the trip… I’d be lying if Orvis isn’t tied with that.

However, hot springs were something I was on the fence about because covid cases in Colorado were around 500 (which seemed insane at the time). While I was hesitant about it, the plan was if we were able to camp there, which meant 24-hour access to the springs, then we would go. Lucky for me, we snagged the last camping spot on a Wednesday night! Let me tell ya, there is nothing like relaxing in a hot spring by yourself stargazing watching for shooting stars. And out of the four hot springs I’ve been to in Colorado, a new fav.

Just like Valley View near Crestone, Orvis Hot Springs is clothing optional all day and most visitors opt for their birthday suits!

Day passes cost $22 per person and camping (including soaking) costs $49 per person
I recommend reservations in advance (especially for weekends)

million dollar highway Colorado hairpin turn san juan mountains

million dollar highway Colorado

take a scenic road trip

Million Dollar Highway has to be one of the most scenic drives in Colorado, if not the entire United States. While unbelievably gorgeous, it is not for the faint of hearts! I’m talking hairpin turns with STEEP dropoffs with no guardrail (or shoulder) y’all! I had extremely sweaty palms and I was in the passenger seat. This 25-mile stretch of roadway runs from Silverton to Ouray. Don’t count on this being only an hour Sunday morning drive though. Plan to spend at least a few hours enjoying the spectacular scenery and making spots along the way. 

Be sure to check road conditions before ya head out. Elevation of the roadway gets above 11,000’!

relax

Covid is mentally exhausting. And even in non-covid times, if you’re taking a “vacation,” there is no need to be doing something every second of every day. Admittedly, I say this but have an extremely hard time doing this. Mother nature must have known this though because while in Telluride, it POURED for an ENTIRE day. And since I didn’t feel comfortable doing anything inside… the only option? Hanging out at the campsite. Read, watch a movie, play a game (highly recommend we’re not really strangers card game).


where to eat

In order to be as covid safe as possible, I planned and prepped to cook most of my meals myself. But since Telluride has some amazing spots, I still got some food to go. The town also closed down a large portion of Colorado Avenue (the main street) to allow for socially distanced outdoor dining.

telluride outdoor eating

brown dog pizza

If you’re from Denver, perhaps you’ve heard of Blue Pan Pizza, which specializes in Detroit-style pizza. Brown Dog was the original spot owned by a WORLD PIZZA CHAMPION. The wait is long, but worth it!

gnar tacos

Ridgway & Telluride
Their tagline is “the sauciest tacos in town.” Sooo good and plenty of veggie options. Pickup and then enjoy eating outside in a park right next to their spot in Telluride.

the butcher and the baker

Breakfast, lunch, cocktails, dinner… this place has you covered. I got some cauliflower wings and a beer as an appetizer while waiting for our pizza to be ready and they were delicious!

car camping breakfast in bed

camping meal ideas?

As a foodie, I’m sad to have missed out on some places, but know I’ll be back to eat alllll the food my heart desires.

pancakes

This recipe is sooo easy and sooo tasty. It has become my go-to recipe even when I’m home! Throw in some trail mix to add some texture!

pizza

I took the easy way out and purchased premade pizza dough, but dough, sauce, cheese, whatever toppings you like, plus a cast iron pan makes for an easy and delicious meal! (Yes, I ate pizza twice within a three-day window).

mac & cheese

ONE POT macaroni and cheese. It doesn’t get much better than that! Especially when camping and ya only have one cooking dish to clean! I added in some baby portabello mushrooms since there was some leftover from pizza and *chef’s kiss*


where to stay

This section is mostly going to give you options for camping since that’s what I did, and well, this is an adventure blog.

designated campgrounds

If you’re looking for a nice flat spot for your tent/car, table, designated fire pit, facilities, etc… look at designated camping spots.

telluride town park campground

Located just footsteps from town (and hikes!)
Open from mid-May to mid-October, reservations required (normally open Mid-April), $20.50 to $35.50 per night

sunshine campground

15 sites located just south of Telluride
Open from mid-May to mid-October, first come first served, $18 per night

matterhorn campground

Located south of Telluride with electric hookups available
Open from mid-May to end-September, reservations required from the beginning of June to mid-September, $24 to $35 per night

car camping at orvis hot springs

car camping hope rd

dispersed camping

Free spots that are first come first served and normally offer no facilities… so pack in/pack out!

alta lakes

A popular place for fishing, this alpine area offers gorgeous dispersed spots
On the way, check out the ghost town of Alta

priest lake

Another popular lake for fishing, this area also has about 10 undeveloped campsites 

hope lake rd

Drive past Priest Lake and turn on Hope Lake Road for numerous pull offs 

These places are just the beginning… check out the resources below for camping spots. And no matter where you choose, please remember to leave no trace!

other options

Of course, camping is not your only option. AirBnB is always a great place to check. One of my favorite things to do in Telluride was browsing houses for sale via window displays (median price is $1M!). Maybe if you are visiting for a special occasion, or just feel like treating yo self, you can find somewhere bougie to stay.


columbine lake hike Colorado saddle san juan mountainsblue lakes hike kat san juan mountains

when to go

The San Juan Mountains can be enjoyed year-round! But keep in mind, you may not be camping or enjoying the same hikes. Also, not quite sure I’d drive the Million Dollar Highway either! I’d recommend summer if you are looking for camping, hiking, etc. Though I hear winter can be quite magical.

what to bring

I have a checklist for car camping! Check that out here. While not 100% necessary, a 4WD vehicle will make getting to many places a lot easier! Renting Jeeps seems to be extremely popular, so check that out if you want to explore some mountain passes.

free camping resources:

directions:

 

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3 Comments

  1. This is a great resource, thank you! Bookmarking this for when we head back to the San Juans (hopefully this summer🤞🏻). Where did you camp at Yankee Boy? Just at the lower trailhead?

    Also, your photo of the flowers along the Columbine trail looks super similar to mine… we must have hiked it about the same time last summer!

    1. We went just past the lower trailhead and slept in the car (we drove from Denver after work so we didn’t get there until after 11pm and had no energy to set up our tent). and yes, also hoping to make my way back there this summer!!

  2. This is a great resource, thank you! Bookmarking this for when we head back to the San Juans (hopefully this summer🤞🏻). Where did you camp at Yankee Boy? Just at the lower trailhead?

    Also, your photo of the flowers along the Columbine trail looks super similar to mine… we must have hiked it about the same time last summer!

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